Wave set-up, percolation and undertow in the surf zone

  title={Wave set-up, percolation and undertow in the surf zone},
  author={M. Longuet-Higgins},
  journal={Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences},
  pages={283 - 291}
  • M. Longuet-Higgins
  • Published 1983
  • Engineering
  • Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences
Waves approaching a sloping beach induce a tilt in the mean water level within the surf zone. The existence of this ‘set-up’ is here demonstrated by observing the mean flow in a straight tube laid parallel to the incoming waves; also by showing that the waves induce a siphon in a U-tube laid on the sloping bottom. It is argued theoretically, and confirmed by experiment, that the set-up should help to drive an offshore bottom current (the undertow) between the shoreline and the breaker line… Expand

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