Towards Sustainable Labour Costing in UK Fashion Retail

  title={Towards Sustainable Labour Costing in UK Fashion Retail},
  author={Doug Miller},
  journal={ERN: Other IO: Theory (Topic)},
  • Doug Miller
  • Published 5 February 2013
  • Business
  • ERN: Other IO: Theory (Topic)
Abstract This paper focuses on a specific feature of buying behaviour in the UK fashion retail industry: the negotiation of a manufacturing price (cut-make-trim, CMT, cost) with suppliers that does not separately itemize labour cost. This practice, tacitly supported by both buyers and suppliers, is examined against the backdrop of ongoing wage defaulting and import price deflation in the global apparel industry. While wage non-compliance cannot be explained solely by this buying practice, since… 

Near‐Sourcing UK Apparel: Value Chain Restructuring, Productivity and the Informal Economy

Fast fashion's emphasis on quick response production and supply chain management is at the basis of renewed growth in UK apparel manufacturing. This article shows how increasing pressure from lead

Minimum Wage in Bangladesh's Ready-made Garment Sector: Impact of Imbalanced Rates on Employee and Organization Development

The ready-made garment (RMG) industry has been Bangladesh’s key export industry and one of the main job creation sectors for last three decades. Almost 80% of Bangladesh’s export earnings come from

Oligopoly-driven development: The World Bank’s Trading for Development in the Age of Global Value Chains in perspective

The World Development Report 2020 (WDR2020) asserts that global value chains raise productivity and incomes, create better jobs and reduce poverty, and proposes state policies to facilitate global

Evading Responsibility: A Structural Critique of Living Wage Initiatives and Methodologies

Despite the existence of multiple living wage initiatives and methodologies for calculating a living wage, there has been limited improvement in increasing garment workers’ incomes. This paper

Making a global poverty chain: export footwear production and gendered labor exploitation in Eastern and Central Europe

Abstract This article shows how the Eastern and Central European export footwear sector has experienced economic and social downgrading and immiserating growth over the last three decades. Based on

Knowledge, Oligopoly and Labour in Global Value Chains

The article explores knowledge in global value chains (GVCs) and its correspondence with the nature of employment in different GVC segments. It starts with the role of knowledge that is protected

How large is the global living wage gap and the price increase needed to close it?

We estimated the global living wage gap (LWG) as $US674 billion per year, which is comparable to the gross domestic product (GDP) of Switzerland. India (IND), the largest LWG country, contributed

Back to the Future? A Critical Reflection on Neil Kearney’s Mature Systems of Industrial Relations Perspective on the Governance of Outsourced Apparel Supply Chains

Abstract As the auditing model for assuring social compliance in apparel commodity chains is called into question, the global quest continues for institutions, policies and governance structures

Inter-Organizational Paradox Management: How national business systems affect responses to paradox along a global value chain

This study discusses the relationship between inter-organizational paradox management, national business systems and global value chains. Using case study evidence from a global value chain in the

Software development for Qualimetrical ergonomics of a workplace

Ergonomics is the science investigating the person and the activity within the process management aiming at improvements of labor conditions and labor process at workplace. The microelement analysis



A Stitch in Time: Lean Retailing and the Transformation of Manufacturing—Lessons from the Apparel and Textile Industries

The textile and fashion industries have forever been at the mercy of rapidly changing styles and fickle customers who want the latest designs while they are still fashionable. The result for these

The ITGLWF’s policy on cross-border dialogue in the textiles, clothing and footwear sector: Emerging strategies in a sector ruled by codes of conduct and resistant companies

The central problem for trade unions in the global textiles, clothing and footwear (TCF) sector is the absence of a mature system of industrial relations in most of the countries where production is

Negotiating International Framework Agreements in the Global Textile, Garment and Footwear Sector

This article outlines the policy and practice of the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Federation (ITGLWF) with respect to multinationals in the sector. It concludes that while the

The politics of productivity and the politics of anti-communism: American and European labour in the Cold War

The ‘politics of productivity’, an attempt to raise levels of industrial productivity in Europe by transcending class conflict and creating a consensus in society for economic growth, was a prominent

Sourcing Practices in the Apparel Industry: Implications for Garment Exporters in Commonwealth Developing Countries

1. Introduction 1.1 Context and Purpose of the Study 1.2 Background to the Study 1.3 Objectives of the Study 1.4 Conduct of the Research 1.5 Structure of the Study 2. Changing Forces in the Apparel


Labour costs are fast increasing in India and other Asian countries. To retain it’s competitiveness, Asian apparel industry will have to pay increased attention to productivity improvement. The

Fair Wages: Strengthening Corporate Social Responsibility

Contents: Foreword by Auret van Heerden Preface Introduction 1. The General Context: Global Wage Trends Part I: Towards a New Wage Policy: The Fair Wage Approach 2. CSR Deficit on Wages 3. Fair

Technology, markets and the design of women's jobs—the case of the clothing industry

The clothing industry has been saved largely as a result of the introduction of new technology in response to an increasingly competitive market place. But what affect has this restructuring had upon