# Statistical properties of directional ocean waves: the role of the modulational instability in the formation of extreme events.

@article{Onorato2009StatisticalPO, title={Statistical properties of directional ocean waves: the role of the modulational instability in the formation of extreme events.}, author={M. Onorato and T. Waseda and A. Toffoli and L. Cavaleri and O. Gramstad and P. Janssen and T. Kinoshita and J. Monbaliu and N. Mori and A. Osborne and M. Serio and C. Stansberg and H. Tamura and K. Trulsen}, journal={Physical review letters}, year={2009}, volume={102 11}, pages={ 114502 } }

We discuss two independent, large scale experiments performed in two wave basins of different dimensions in which the statistics of the surface wave elevation are addressed. Both facilities are equipped with a wave maker capable of generating waves with prescribed frequency and directional properties. The experimental results show that the probability of the formation of large amplitude waves strongly depends on the directional properties of the waves. Sea states characterized by long-crestedâ€¦Â Expand

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