Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ‘surf beats’

@article{LonguetHiggins1962RadiationSA,
  title={Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ‘surf beats’},
  author={Michael Selwyn Longuet-Higgins and Robert William Stewart},
  journal={Journal of Fluid Mechanics},
  year={1962},
  volume={13},
  pages={481 - 504}
}
This paper studies the second-order currents and changes in mean surface level which are caused by gravity waves of non-uniform amplitude. The effects are interpreted in terms of the radiation stresses in the waves. The first example is of wave groups propagated in water of uniform mean depth. The problem is solved first by a perturbation analysis. In two special cases the second-order currents are found to be proportional simply to the square of the local wave amplitude: (a) when the lengths… 

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