Progress in ocean wave forecasting

  title={Progress in ocean wave forecasting},
  author={Peter A. E. M. Janssen},
  journal={J. Comput. Physics},
Progress in ocean wave forecasting is described in the context of the fundamental law for wave prediction: the energy balance equation. The energy balance equation gives the rate of change of the sea state caused by adiabatic processes such as advection, and by the physical source functions of the generation of ocean waves by wind, the dissipation due to whitecapping and the nonlinear four-wave interactions. In this paper we discuss the formulation of the physics source functions and we discuss… CONTINUE READING
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