Profiles of fully developed (Airy) waves in different water depths

@inproceedings{Roux2008ProfilesOF,
  title={Profiles of fully developed (Airy) waves in different water depths},
  author={J. P. Le Roux},
  year={2008}
}
Abstract Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t , given by η ( x , t ) = ( H o /2) cos[2π x / L o  − 2π t / T w ], where H o is the deepwater height, L o is the deepwater wavelength, and T w is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height… CONTINUE READING