Predicting the breaking onset of surface water waves

@article{Babanin2007PredictingTB,
  title={Predicting the breaking onset of surface water waves},
  author={A. Babanin and D. Chalikov and I. Young and I. Savelyev},
  journal={Geophysical Research Letters},
  year={2007},
  volume={34}
}
[1] Why do ocean waves break? Understanding this important and obvious property of the ocean surface has been elusive for decades. This paper investigates causes which lead deep-water two-dimensional initially monochromatic waves to break. Individual wave steepness is found to be the single parameter which determines whether the wave will break immediately, never break or take a finite number of wave lengths to break. The breaking will occur once the wave reaches the Stokes limiting steepness… Expand

Figures from this paper

Numerical and laboratory investigation of breaking of steep two-dimensional waves in deep water
Breaking Waves on the Ocean Surface
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