Physiology of difficult rock climbing

@article{Watts2003PhysiologyOD,
  title={Physiology of difficult rock climbing},
  author={Phillip B Watts},
  journal={European Journal of Applied Physiology},
  year={2003},
  volume={91},
  pages={361-372}
}
  • P. Watts
  • Published 2003
  • Biology, Medicine
  • European Journal of Applied Physiology
The purpose of this review is to explore existing research on the physiological aspects of difficult rock climbing. Findings will be categorized into the areas of an athlete profile and an activity model. An objective here is to describe high-level climbing performance; thus the focus will primarily be on studies that involve performances at the 5.11/6c (YDS/French) level of difficulty or higher. Studies have found climbers to be small in stature with low body mass and low body fat. Although… Expand
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References

SHOWING 1-10 OF 32 REFERENCES
Metabolic response during sport rock climbing and the effects of active versus passive recovery.
TLDR
Although climbers may be able to attain a plateau in VO2, the observed accumulation of lactate in the blood combined with the elevated recovery VO2 indicate a higher overall energy demand than indicated via the recorded VO2 during climbing. Expand
Acute changes in handgrip strength, endurance, and blood lactate with sustained sport rock climbing.
TLDR
It was concluded that handgrip strength and hand grip endurance decrease with continuous difficult rock climbing and remain depressed after 20 minutes of resting recovery and it also appears that handGrip strength recovers at a faster rate than handgri endurance. Expand
Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers.
TLDR
It is demonstrated that elite climbers have greater shoulder girdle endurance, finger strength and hip flexibility than recreational climbers and non-climbers and those who aspire to lead 'E1' standard climbs or above should consider training programmes to enhance their finger strength, shoulder girdsle strength and endurance, and Hip flexibility. Expand
Physiological responses to simulated rock climbing at different angles.
TLDR
It was concluded that continuous rock climbing over terrain steepness of 80 degrees to 102 degrees presents a "very heavy" work challenge, averaging 8.4-9.0 metabolic equivalents, regardless of angle. Expand
Energy cost of sport rock climbing in elite performers.
TLDR
The results suggest that for elite climbers outdoor sport rock climbs of five to 10 minutes' duration and moderate difficulty require a significant portion of the VO2climb-peak. Expand
Energy specificity of rock climbing and aerobic capacity in competitive sport rock climbers.
TLDR
The results suggest that the competitive rock climbing elicit particularly arms since heart rate is high for a relatively low value of VO2, which is higher than normal for a climber's maximal O2 consumption. Expand
A comparison of the anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers
TLDR
It is suggested that elite climbers have greater finger strength than recreational climbers and non-climbers. Expand
Energy expenditure and physiological responses during indoor rock climbing.
TLDR
The data indicate that indoor rock climbing is a good activity to increase cardiorespiratory fitness and muscular endurance and the traditional HR-VO2 relationship should not be used in the analysis of this sport, or for prescribing exercise intensity for climbing. Expand
Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance
TLDR
The findings do not support the belief that a climber must necessarily possess specific anthropometric characteristics to excel in sport rock climbing, and can be explained by a component consisting of trainable variables. Expand
Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers.
TLDR
World-class climbers assessed immediately prior to competition at an international World Cup sport climbing championship indicated that elite sport climbers are of small to moderate stature and exhibit very low % fat, moderate grip strength and high SMR when compared with other athletic groups. Expand
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