• Published 2005

On the occurrence of wave breaking

@inproceedings{Gemmrich2005OnTO,
  title={On the occurrence of wave breaking},
  author={Johannes Gemmrich},
  year={2005}
}
The practicality of common wave breaking criteria is reviewed. Video recordings of the sea surface taken from aboard R/P FLIP are used to extract breaking wave properties. The key quantity is Λ(c)dc, the length of breaking crests per unit area propagating with speeds in the range (c, c+ dc). Independent of wave field development, Λ(c) is found to peak at intermediate wave scales and to drop off sharply at larger and smaller scales. For young waves, breakers occur at a wide range of scales… CONTINUE READING

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