On Frequency-Focusing Unidirectional Waves

  title={On Frequency-Focusing Unidirectional Waves},
  author={John R. Chaplin},
Phase convergence to within lOin mechanically generated waves was achieved at a specified point in a wave flume by frequency focusing. Owing to the presence of nonlinear waves, the crest elevation reaches a maximum somewhat further from the waveboard, where also breaking occurs if the waves are of sufficient size. The critical amplitude for breaking was not in close agreement with previous measurements when normalized with respect to the central wave number of mechanically generated waves. It… CONTINUE READING