Limiting gravity waves in water of finite depth
@article{Williams1981LimitingGW, title={Limiting gravity waves in water of finite depth}, author={J. Williams}, journal={Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences}, year={1981}, volume={302}, pages={139 - 188} }
Progressive, irrotational gravity waves of constant form exist as a two-parameter family. The first parameter, the ratio of mean depth to wavelength, varies from zero (the solitary wave) to infinity (the deep-water wave). The second parameter, the wave height or amplitude, varies from zero (the infinitesimal wave) to a limiting value dependent on the first parameter. For limiting waves the wave crest ceases to be rounded and becomes angled, with an included angle of 120°. Most methods of… CONTINUE READING
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