Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry

@article{Trulsen2012LaboratoryEO,
  title={Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry},
  author={Karsten Trulsen and Huiming Zeng and Odin Gramstad},
  journal={Physics of Fluids},
  year={2012},
  volume={24},
  pages={097101}
}
We show experimental evidence that as relatively long unidirectional waves propagate over a sloping bottom, from a deeper to a shallower domain, there can be a local maximum of kurtosis and skewness close to the shallower side of the slope. We also show evidence that the probability of large wave envelope has a local maximum near the shallower side of the slope. We therefore anticipate that the probability of freak waves can have a local maximum near the shallower side of a slope for relatively… 

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