# Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry

@article{Trulsen2012LaboratoryEO, title={Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry}, author={Karsten Trulsen and Huiming Zeng and Odin Gramstad}, journal={Physics of Fluids}, year={2012}, volume={24}, pages={097101} }

We show experimental evidence that as relatively long unidirectional waves propagate over a sloping bottom, from a deeper to a shallower domain, there can be a local maximum of kurtosis and skewness close to the shallower side of the slope. We also show evidence that the probability of large wave envelope has a local maximum near the shallower side of the slope. We therefore anticipate that the probability of freak waves can have a local maximum near the shallower side of a slope for relatively…

## 64 Citations

### Freak waves in weakly nonlinear unidirectional wave trains over a sloping bottom in shallow water

- Physics
- 2013

Using a Boussinesq model with improved linear dispersion, we show numerical evidence that bottom non-uniformity can provoke significantly increased probability of freak waves as a wave field…

### Fully nonlinear simulations of unidirectional extreme waves provoked by strong depth transitions: The effect of slope

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### Extreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal

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We report laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular water surface waves propagating over a shoal. For a sufficiently shallow shoal we find that the surface elevation can have a local maximum…

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- Environmental Science
- 2017

Recent experimental and numerical studies have demonstrated an increased rogue wave activity during the propagation of a wave field over a sloping bottom, from a deeper to a shallower domain. These…

### ESTIMATION OF FREAK WAVE OCCURRENCE FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATER REGIONS

- Environmental Science
- 2014

Nonlinear four-wave interactions amplify wave heights of deep-water generating extreme wave such as a freak wave. However, it is not clear the behavior of generated freak waves in deep-water shoaling…

### Extreme waves induced by strong depth transitions: Fully nonlinear results

- Geology, Environmental Science
- 2014

Recent studies on free-surface gravity waves over uneven bathymetries have shown that “rogue” waves can be triggered by strong depth variations. This phenomenon is here studied by means of spectral…

### Evolution of skewness and kurtosis of weakly nonlinear unidirectional waves over a sloping bottom

- Geology
- 2012

Abstract. We consider the effect of slowly varying depth on the values of skewness and kurtosis of weakly nonlinear irregular waves propagating from deeper to shallower water. It is known that the…

### Extreme wave statistics of surface elevation and velocity field of gravity waves over a two-dimensional bathymetry

- GeologyJournal of Fluid Mechanics
- 2022

Abstract This paper presents the effects of two-dimensional bathymetry on the evolution of skewness and kurtosis of the surface elevation and velocity field in long-crested irregular waves…

### Statistical properties of wave kinematics in long-crested irregular waves propagating over non-uniform bathymetry

- PhysicsPhysics of Fluids
- 2021

Experimental and numerical evidence have shown that nonuniform bathymetry may alter significantly the statistical properties of surface elevation in irregular wave fields. The probability of “rogue”…

### Anomalous wave statistics induced by abrupt depth change

- PhysicsPhysical Review Fluids
- 2019

Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes…

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