Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves

@article{Ashton2001FormationOC,
  title={Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves},
  author={Andrew Dale Ashton and A. Brad Murray and Olivier Arnoult},
  journal={Nature},
  year={2001},
  volume={414},
  pages={296-300}
}
Alongshore sediment transport that is driven by waves is generally assumed to smooth a coastline. This assumption is valid for small angles between the wave crest lines and the shore, as has been demonstrated in shoreline models. But when the angle between the waves and the shoreline is sufficiently large, small perturbations to a straight shoreline will grow. Here we use a numerical model to investigate the implications of this instability mechanism for large-scale morphology over long… 

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Waves with a large incidence angle in deep water can drive a morphodynamic instability on a sandy coast whereby shoreline sand waves, cuspate forelands, and spits can emerge. This instability is
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