Characterization of Esterase and Alcohol Dehydrogenase Activity in Skin. Metabolism of Retinyl Palmitate to Retinol (Vitamin A) During Percutaneous Absorption

@article{Boehnlein2004CharacterizationOE,
  title={Characterization of Esterase and Alcohol Dehydrogenase Activity in Skin. Metabolism of Retinyl Palmitate to Retinol (Vitamin A) During Percutaneous Absorption},
  author={J. Boehnlein and Adel Sakr and J. Leon Lichtin and Robert L. Bronaugh},
  journal={Pharmaceutical Research},
  year={2004},
  volume={11},
  pages={1155-1159}
}
Retinyl palmitate, a widely used ingredient in cosmetic products, is promoted for its beneficial effects on the appearance of skin. Previous studies suggest that enzymes are available in skin to metabolize this ingredient during skin absorption. Esterase activity hydrolyzes retinyl palmitate to retinol (vitamin A), which is oxidized in many tissues to retinoic acid primarily by alcohol dehydrogenase. The activities of esterase and alcohol dehydrogenase were characterized in hairless guinea pig… 
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A stoichiometric comparison of these retinoids using in vitro and ex vivo skin models found that RP and ROL have higher penetration levels compared to RPalm and RP has a consistently higher magnitude of response compared with ROL or R Palm.
The vitamin A ester retinyl propionate has a unique metabolic profile and higher retinoid‐related bioactivity over retinol and retinyl palmitate in human skin models
TLDR
A stoichiometric comparison of these retinoids using in vitro and ex vivo skin models found that RP and ROL have higher penetration levels compared with RPalm and RP has a consistently higher magnitude of responseCompared with ROL or R Palm.
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