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In this paper, several numerical aspects of an existing model for fully nonlinear waves are improved and validated to study wave breaking due to shoaling over a gentle plane slope and wave breaking induced by a moving lateral boundary. The model is based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory and combines a higher-order Boundary Element Method (BEM) for… (More)

Fully nonlinear extensions of Boussinesq equations are derived to simulate surface wave propagation in coastal regions. By using the velocity at a certain depth as a dependent variable (Nwogu 1993), the resulting equations have significantly improved linear dispersion properties in intermediate water depths when compared to standard Boussinesq… (More)

- Stephan T. Grilli, Juan Horrillo
- 1997

A new method is proposed for the generation of permanent form periodic waves, in a twodimensional fully nonlinear potential flow model. In this method, a constant volume is maintained in the computational domain (“wave tank”) by simultaneously generating a mean current, equal and opposite to the waves mean mass transport velocity. An absorbing beach is… (More)

Numerical experiments are conducted for two-dimensional model problems of tsunami generation by underwater slides and slumps. These problems consist of a semi-ellipse, translating down an incline with a prescribed center of mass motion. For each problem, this motion is derived as a function of geometric and material parameters, and we calculate… (More)

An accurate three-dimensional numerical model, applicable to strongly non-linear waves, is proposed. The model solves fully non-linear potential flow equations with a free surface using a higher-order three-dimensional boundary element method (BEM) and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time updating, based on second-order explicit Taylor series expansions with… (More)

- F. Shi, J. T. Kirby, J. Clay Harris, Joseph D. Geiman, Stephan T. Grilli
- 2012

1463-5003/$ see front matter 2011 Elsevier Ltd. A doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2011.12.004 ⇑ Corresponding author. Tel.: +1 302 831 2449. E-mail address: fyshi@udel.edu (F. Shi). We present a high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model of Chen (2006), extended to include moving reference level as in Kennedy et al. (2001).… (More)

Shoaling and breaking of solitary waves is computed on slopes 1:100 to 1:8 using an experimentally validated fully nonlinear wave model based on potential flow equations. Characteristics of waves are computed at and beyond the breaking point, and geometric self-similarities of breakers are discussed as a function of wave height and bottom slope. No wave… (More)

The December 26, 2004 tsunami was perhaps the most devastating tsunami in recorded history, causing over 200,000 fatalities and widespread destruction in countries bordering the Indian Ocean. It was generated by the third largest earthquake on record Mw=9.1–9.3 and was a truly global event, with significant wave action felt around the world. Many… (More)

Three-dimensional (3D) directional wave focusing is one of the mechanisms that contributes to the generation of extreme waves, also known as rogue waves, in the ocean. To simulate and analyze this phenomenon, we generate extreme waves in a 3D numerical wave tank (NWT), by specifying the motion of a snake wavemaker. The NWT solves fully nonlinear potential… (More)

The Papua New Guinea (PNG) tsunami of July 1998 was a seminal event because it demonstrated that relatively small and relatively deepwater Submarine Mass Failures (SMFs) can cause devastating local tsunamis that strike without warning. There is a comprehensive data set that proves this event was caused by a submarine slump. Yet, the source of the tsunami… (More)