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Wave Diffraction Due to Areas of Energy Dissipation
A parabolic model for calculating the combined refraction/diffraction of monochromatic linear waves is developed, including a term which allows for the dissipation of wave energy. The coefficient ofExpand
Time-Dependent Numerical Code for Extended Boussinesq Equations
The extended Boussinesq equations derived by Nwogu (1993) significantly improve the linear dispersive properties of long-wave models in intermediate water depths, making it suitable to simulate waveExpand
Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone
Abstract Undertow and turbulence in the surf zone have been studied in a wave flume for a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker. Fluid velocities across a 1 on 35 sloped false bottom were measuredExpand
A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part 1. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves
Fully nonlinear extensions of Boussinesq equations are derived to simulate surface wave propagation in coastal regions. By using the velocity at a certain depth as a dependent variable (Nwogu 1993),Expand
In this paper, we focus on the implementation and verification of an extended Boussinesq model for surf zone hydrodynamics in two horizontal dimensions. The time-domain numerical model is based onExpand
A high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for Boussinesq modeling of breaking waves and coastal inundation
We present a high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model of Chen (2006), extended to include moving reference level as in Kennedy et al. (2001). TheExpand
Shock-capturing non-hydrostatic model for fully dispersive surface wave processes
Abstract This paper describes NHWAVE, a shock-capturing non-hydrostatic model for simulating wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling, breaking and landslide-generated tsunami in finite water depth.Expand
Monochromatic and random wave breaking at blocking points
[1] In this paper we study the energy dissipation due to current-limited wave breaking in monochromatic and random waves with the help of experimental tests. The opposing currents are strong enoughExpand
Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a spilling breaker
The structure of turbulence in a spilling breaker has been studied experimentally based on the transport equation for turbulent kinetic energy (the k-equation). We study turbulence transport in theExpand
Landslide tsunami case studies using a Boussinesq model and a fully nonlinear tsunami generation model
Case studies of landslide tsunamis require integration of marine geology data and interpretations into numerical simulations of tsunami attack. Many landslide tsunami generation and propagationExpand